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1. Remove belt and install the Clutch Offset Alignment Tool (PN 2870654) as shown.
2. With tool touching rear of driven clutch inner sheave, the distance at point “A” should be 1/8″. If the distance is greater than 1/8″ or less than 1/16″, clutch alignment must be adjusted as follows:
3. Remove drive and driven clutch. See PVT Disassembly in Service Manaul.
4. Remove PVT inner cover.
5. Loosen all engine mounts. Move front of engine to the right or left slightly until alignment is correct.
6. Tighten engine mounts and verify alignment is correct.
7. Measure belt deflection and measure offset both above and below sheave centerlines. Adjust if necessary.
NOTE: On some models, minor adjustments can be made by adding shims between the frame and front lower left engine mount to increase the distance at point “A”. If a shim is present, it can be removed to decrease the distance at point “A”.
Important: Inspect clutch alignment and center distance before adjusting offset.
1. Install offset alignment tool as shown. Offset is correct when rear of tool contacts rear of inner sheave with driven clutch pushed completely inward on shaft and bolt torqued. Adjust offset by
adding or removing spacer washers between back of driven clutch and spacer as shown.
DRIVEN CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY/INSPECTION
1. Apply and hold downward pressure on the helix, or place driven clutch in the Clutch Compression Tool (PN 8700220).
2. Remove snap ring retainer.
3. Note the location of the spring and remove helix.
4. Note the location of the spring in the moveable sheave, and remove the spring.
5. Check alignment of tabs on spring. Replace the spring if tabs aremisaligned or the spring coils are distorted.
6. Inspect ramp buttons in themoveable sheaveand replace if worn. NOTE: The ramp buttons are secured by Torxt screws (T20).
7. Remove moveable sheave and note the number of spacer washers. One spacer must remain between the sheaves when adjusting belt deflection.
8. Inspect the Teflont coating on the moveable sheave bushing.
9. Inspect driven clutch faces for wear or damage.
10. Clean and inspect splines on helix and transmission input shaft.
11. Lube splines with a light film of grease. Do not lubricate the bushings!
DRIVEN CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
1. Install moveable sheave with spacer washers. Important: At least one spacer washer must be installed. Teflont bushings are self-lubricating. Do not apply oil or grease to the bushings.
2. Install spring, inserting spring tab into proper hole in moveable sheave.
3. Insert spring tab into proper hole in helix. The driven clutch, helix/moveable assembly has several different spring locations which affect clutch
shifting and RPMs. The greatest amount of spring tension will raise engine RPMs during clutch upshift and allow quicker backshift or downshift when pulling or negotiating a hill, for example. The least amount of tension will create a slower downshift and a harder upshift.
4. Line up boss spline and push helix down until it engages the splines 1/2″ to 3/4″.
5. While holding downward pressure on helix, wind moveable sheave counterclockwise approximately 1/3 turn (120°).
6. Push helix into place and install snap ring.
TROUBLESHOOTING - Engine
Engine Turns Over But Fails to Start
Dirt in fuel line or filter
Fuel will not pass through fuel valve
Fuel pump inoperative/restricted
Tank vent plugged
Carb starter circuit
Low compression (high cylinder leakage)
No spark (Spark plug fouled)
Engine Does Not Turn Over
Starter motor does not turn
Engine seized, rusted, or mechanical failure
Recoil components damaged
Engine Runs But Will Not Idle
Restricted carburetor pilot system
Choke not adjusted properly
Crankcase breather restricted
Air filter restriction
Engine Idles But Will Not Rev Up
Spark plug fouled/weak spark
Broken throttle cable
Obstruction in air intake
Air box removed (reinstall all intake components)
Incorrect or restricted carburetor jetting
ETC switch limiting speed
Reverse speed limiter limiting speed
Carburetor vacuum slide sticking/diaphragm damaged
Incorrect ignition timing
Restricted exhaust system
Cam Lobe worn
Engine Has Low Power
Spark plug fouled
Cylinder, piston, ring, or valve wear or damage (check compression)
PVT not operating properly
Restricted exhaust muffler
Carburetor vacuum slide sticking/diaphragm damaged
Cam lobe worn
2007 Honda Foreman 500 Repair Manual
Piston Failure - Scoring
Lack of lubrication
Dirt entering engine through cracks in air filter or ducts
Engine oil dirty or contaminated
Excessive Smoke and Carbon Buildup
Excessive piston-to-cylinder clearance
Worn rings, piston, or cylinder
Worn valves, guides or seals
Air filter dirty or contaminated
Cylinder head gasket leak
No valve clearance or incorrectly adjusted
Cylinder or piston worn
Piston rings worn, leaking, broken, or sticking
Bent valve or stuck valve
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (bent or carbon accumulated on valve area)
Rocker arm sticking
ETC or speed limiter system malfunction
Fouled spark plug or incorrect plug or plug gap
Carburetion faulty - lean condition
Intake / Exhaust system air leaks
Ignition system faulty:
Spark plug cap cracked/broken
Ignition coil faulty
Ignition or kill switch circuit faulty
Ignition timing incorrect
Sheared flywheel key
Poor connections in ignition system
System wiring wet
Cam lobe worn or Valve sticking